Monday 10 June 2013

May 31-June1 Sarajevo to Mostar and on to Dubrovnik

May 31
An early start today for our long drive to Sarajevo.

It was just as well that our tour guide provided a substantial historical background of the country and the region. Bosnia and Herzegovina, a Muslim country, has a complex history. Today however, it is still suffering from the effects of the regional war in the 1990s.

After a long wait at the border we started our journey deep into the country. The road was poor and windy. Derelict buildings and overgrown land greet us.  This area is a sort of border territory, still recognising the Christian religion.

We stopped for another break and as we continued it became apparent we were in the more Muslim region. The landscape also changed from overgrown land with occasional cultivated plots, almost subsistence living, to a more hilly landscape, more towns and better maintained agricultural land. Still signs though of the extreme poverty in this country where, we were told, 50% of the population live in poverty.

Arriving into Sarajevo we passed a derelict building which was under construction before the war to house elderly residents of the city. It was shelled during the war and has been left as a memorial or reminder of that time. This road was known as sniper alley. The name says it all, so many buildings along this stretch bear the scars of that time.

After quickly settling in to our hotel we went for a walk with our guide to the old town where the lanes are filled with shops and restaurants and cafes. The shops were selling many locally hand crafted souvenirs. We bought a couple of beautiful hand painted china bowls.

Our dinner was in the hotel as the tour did not want to expose single women to any threats, being out alone or unaccompanied by a man in the evening.


Lots of derelict buildings

Then  in the middle of nowhere this motel

As with Christianty there is always more than one mosque in each town



Well kept agricultural plots alongside the river


This building was to have been accommodation for the elderly


Lots of buildings from the communist times



Local 'fast food' (cerapcici) - grilled Turkish bread with sausage inside




Beautiful shops in the bazaar



June 1
Today we leave Sarajevo. It is a fascinating city with an astonishing history. I learned about the history of the Ottoman Empire, but was unaware of the significance of Sarajevo in that history. It was also the last stop on the silk road.

Our guide took us through the bazaar and explained about the copper utensils and how they were used by families in their day to day lives. We also visited a mosque where our guide explained the building and religion.

It was also in Sarajevo that the shooting of the Arch Duke triggered the first world war and we visited a museum which helped explain the events leading up to that shooting.


It was on this bridge that the shot was fired triggering WWI






These very Eastern shops lined the entrance to a traditional boarding house complex

Accommodation was built around a central square


Outside the mosque


Only a simple mosque (and the oldest in Sarajevo) but beautifully decorated nonetheless




Section of the old town walls



Next stop Mostar.
Our route took us through some stunning countryside as we followed the river through a gorge.


En route to Mostar, lots of hillside villages - Pocitelj


It was a pity the weather spoilt the beauty of our route




Despite the weather the colour of the water was incredible


For a poor small nation they can sure build tunnels!!!!


As we arrived in Mostar the heavens opened. We were one of more than 20 coaches. Thank goodness we are only a group of 27. Umbrellas up we jostled our way to the famous bridge. Originally built in 1566, it was bombed and destroyed during the Bosnian war. In 2004 it was rebuilt and became a UNESCO world heritage site in 2005.

When we were there a young man looked like he was going to jump from the bridge, for which it is famous. He was not offered enough money so it did not happen.

Mostar, even in the pouring rain, is a lovely place to visit.

After a few more short stops we arrived in Dubrovnik quite late. Just as well the local population eats late as we did not find somewhere to eat until almost 8 pm.

Fingers crossed the weather will be more kind tomorrow.

 
More evidence of the war


Ready to jump - for a price

Chaos on the bridge 

View up river


Lovely cobbled streets which were very slippery in the rain


Business was quiet

Still raining


Finally a view of the bridge




The mosque on the Muslim side


More war devastation


A hilltop fortress

A new bridge making entry to Dubrovnik easier



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