Maui day 5

We had breakfast at a local cafe this morning. The rain overnight had long gone and the sun was shining. The trade winds were already blowing but Haleakala was clear this morning. As we sat and ate our breakfast the clouds gathered and shrouded the summit once more; embracing the mountain for another day.


Unfortunately we were not in a position to race out to a suitable viewpoint to record this event, so you will just have to take me at my word.


We decided to head along to Ho'okipa Beach once more and do some snorkelling. Sometimes there are turtles to be seen in the calm waters close to the cliffs. Not today though. Lots of fish and we had a fun time but no luck with the turtles.


The surfers were out in force once again. It's a very popular spot. As we were leaving some more wind surfers had arrived. The wind was certainly picking up.

We decided to head out for the afternoon and explore the south shore. We had not been to this part of the island before. It was worth exploring. We passed by the high end resorts at Wailea, all beautifully manicured and landscaped and drove as far east as we could. We arrived at the end of the road at La Perouse Bay- the same La Perouse who landed in Sydney.


This isolated bay is reached by driving through a desolate volcanic rock area but once we arrived the coastline was stunning. There is a path which winds its way close to the shore and leads eventually to a beach from where the snorkelling is apparently good. Too far for us today. Maybe another time. 

The water is a beautiful turquoise blue in shallow parts and a deeper ultramarine blue in others, simply stunning.

The wind was really blowing when we arrived back at the hotel so it was not going to be very pleasant sitting on the private beach at the back of the hotel. So we put back the fins we had borrowed for snorkelling and headed across the road for a coffee.

Pathway leading to the beach

We decided to return to Flatbread for dinner. We timed our arrival just right. The restaurant does not take bookings and shortly after we arrived lots of other people arrived. We were seated pretty quickly and spent a fun time, while waiting for our meal, watching the pizza creators do their stuff. Quite a production line. I wish we could have a Flatbread in Sydney - it would make a killing.


Back at the hotel, after settling our account, it was time to get the bags packed. Tomorrow morning early, we leave.


I hope you have enjoyed following our travels on this long holiday to Canada, Alaska and Hawaii (with a brief interlude in Seattle and with our friends in Sunland). We have had a marvellous time and I know I shall be referring back to my blog to recall where photos were taken. Lots of work to do when we get home creating some photobooks so we can look back and remember all the wonderful places we have been and seen.


Sad to leave Maui, but we'll be back .....

Maui day 4

Ahhhh – today we decided to head for the beach. The clouds that had gathered during the evening had dispersed and the sun was shining. It was rather windy, but certainly not cold. We are on the windward side of the island after all.

After a late breakfast we went down the path to a private garden area owned by the hotel with access to the beach. A swim was on the list of things to do and the water was beautiful, clean and clear. No surf to battle with, just gentle waves breaking on the shore.

It’s only a small beach so we went for a walk along to the other end and back then decided we would drive up to the summit of Mt Haleakala. The entry fee we paid yesterday was good for two more days so we thought we might as well make use of it.

We drove through vast tracts of eucalypts, introduced as a source of timber and now an invasive species, on the slopes of the majestic volcano. At 7000’ we weren’t quite in the clouds, but getting close. The temperature had dropped 10 deg F. At 8000’ we were above the clouds, the road snaking across the slopes of the volcano. They were resurfacing the road and as we waited at a control point we could watch the clouds forming and re-forming as they moved around changing our view as they went.

Same view moments later

Formerly grazing land the paniolo (cowboys) built a two mile long wall in the late 1800s to guide the cattle down the mountain. There are still signs of the wall at a lookout point. There is still a lot of ranching on the mountain but Haleakala National Park was set aside to regenerate and preserve native high country flora, the Silversword being a prime example which is now firmly regenerating.

wall to guide cattle down the mountain

The Silversword, only found on the slopes of Mt Haleakala

When we reached the summit the view was just as amazing as I remembered only this time the air was clearer. Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa were very clear thrusting their peaks through the clouds surrounding the Big Island (Hawai’i). Haleakala is actually 200+m higher than Mt Everest when measured from its base deep in the ocean from where these islands have risen.

The desolate volcanic landscape

The Big Island in the distance - Mauna Kea (left) and Mauna Loa (right)

Satellite tracking facility used to track the passage of Venus recently

My passion for all things glacial is matched by my passion for the volcanic.

When we got back to our hotel the water bottles had been sucked in with the change in air pressure. It’s quite an experience.

Fish and chips for dinner rounded off a lovely day.

Maui day 3

The decision on where to eat last night resulted in popping in two doors down – how convenient is that – to Flatbread, a pizza place with a queue and an organic reputation. We ordered takeaway and had a drink at the bar to wait for the pizza which really didn’t take too long. A wood-fired pizza oven was being fed pizzas in front of all the diners; pretty neat.

We took the pizza back to our hotel and enjoyed it on our verandah with a glass of wine.

Today we had a somewhat earlier start to the day. Ian had decided that his birthday would be spent driving the Mustang down the Road to Hana. This famous drive is such a Maui iconic day out. We did it last time we visited. On that occasion we stopped at almost every possible viewpoint and place of interest. So this time we decided we would simply enjoy the drive and make essential stops only as well as visit some other places we had not previously visited.

It was a Mustang muster on the road to Hana. Tops down taking the curves gently, everyone but us that is!! Ian was having fun at the wheel. Well it is his birthday.

We stopped in at Ke’anae Peninsula again to pick up some banana bread – a favourite treat, sold at lots of locations along the road. The sea was much calmer than when we last visited, the view was still amazing. Driving around to the other side of the peninsula I took time to wander over to the church which was built of lava rocks. This church was the only building left standing after a tsunami in 1946.

Lava stone church, Ke'anae Peninsula

In his element

The road moves inland and follows the line of the gulches, the deep valleys created by ancient lava flows. The sun is searing hot but it is cool in the shade of the trees.

It soon became apparent that the drought was affecting many of the previously popular stopping points. Many of the waterfalls were simply not flowing. We did, however, manage a photo op at the Three Bear Falls, which we had previously not managed due to the crowds and no place to pull over.

Three Bear Falls

On the road once again our next stop was not until just before we reached Hana. I had read about the Pi’ilanihale Heiau (a religious site), a 16^th century historic site and was interested to visit. It was certainly not what I expected. It was worth the bumpy ride off the main road.

A massive structure surrounded by beautiful gardens – all plants labelled and explained. The sheer size of the structure, built of lava stones, cannot be captured in a simple photograph. It would be better appreciated from the air I suspect. It is the largest of its kind in the Hawaiian Islands. Suffice to say, it was pretty impressive.

We called into Hana Bay for a drink but pressed on because we were going into uncharted waters – well roads untravelled by us at least. We were driving back to Pa’ia around the ‘backside’ of the mountain. This route is a bit of a taboo subject – it’s dangerous, not allowed by rental car companies – but these are myths. I wanted especially to visit the Oheo gulch and Charles Lindberg’s grave both of which are along this part of the road. 

Hana Bay

Outrigger canoes

Lots of 'Nike' swooshes in the sky

We found the Oheo gulch – hard to miss really just about everyone else out Hana way was there too!!! This site is within Haleakala National Park so we joined the queue to pay the entry. Parking was at a premium. Being a hot day, this was a popular spot for swimming.

We made our way down to the bottom of the gulch where lots of people were enjoying the cool waters flowing from the mountain to the sea. It’s a very pretty spot and lovely for families. We did not stay long however, as we were unsure how long the drive back would take.

The grave of Charles Lindberg is well hidden. Despite being mentioned on all tour maps, we missed it. Once we realised we were on the section of road that is ‘rough paved’ we knew we had gone too far. No turning back on this road – it is only just wide enough for two cars, only one in some parts, and a steep drop on one side. So we pressed on and continued through the lush tropical landscape which typifies the road to Hana until we passed through a place called Kaupo. Suddenly the landscape changed. The open slopes of the volcano started to dominate.

We thoroughly enjoyed our journey around the ‘backside’ of the island, despite the rough section of road. It was a very interesting experience and we are glad we did it.

We had another place recommended locally for dinner and it was a perfect end to the day.

Maui day 2

The sun was up and so were we – nice and late! Breakfast was a relaxed affair at the hotel and we finally headed out around 10.

Entrance to our Garden Room

Having talked to Karly on the desk we went out armed with a good map and took the route to the I’ao Needle State Park. This was something we had missed on our last visit, so now it is ticked off the list. Only a small place, it is nevertheless one of peace and quiet and contemplation – if you can block out the other visitors!! Fortunately we missed the coach tours.

There are many historic churches on Maui.

Driving around Maui is such a pleasure. No freeways, some dual carriageways, 55mph max, and drivers give way!!!! With a bit of Grace Kelly happening in our open top Mustang , we headed for the Ali’i Kula Lavender farm, situated on the slopes of Mt Haleakala.


We took a side trip to visit an 1894 church – what a position; high up on the slopes of the mountain overlooking the ocean at Kihei. The Hawaiian Islands have a long and fascinating history. Parts of Maui really hold to the island’s roots. Where we were staying was one as are many of the small towns scattered across the western slopes of Haleakala.

Holy Ghost Church, Kula

After this short diversion we found the lavender farm, but it not as extensive as I had hoped. Some pretty gardens and many lavender products, but not what I was after. So we headed to Makawao for a late lunch.

Lovely gardens, but lavender products not to my liking

Makawao – hard to say and just as hard to describe. Somewhat Byron Bay mixed with a bit of raw cowboy, Makawao is full of boutiques, galleries and gift shops. We lunched at a local eatery where the milkshake I ordered was anything but. The food, on the other hand was superb.

Our day out finished with a visit to Ho’okipa Beach. The wind was blowing and this beach is a world renowned wind surfing location. At one end of the beach there were about half a dozen wind surfers slicing through the waves, almost hitting the beach before turning back out to sea, occasionally tipping, but mostly simply flying. 

At the other end of the beach dozens of surfers were catching some smooth waves. Parking was at a premium – well it was a free show after all.

Now for a serious decision – where to eat.