Saturday 28 April 2012

Salamander Bay

After a trip up in continuous rain, we arrived in Salamander Bay in time for a cup of tea.
Having settled in we took off for the shopping centre to buy some groceries.
We spent the rest of the afternoon discussing what we should do with our time. We already planned to join a walk around historic Tanilba Bay on Tuesday. Here’s hoping the weather improves.

Day 2

Today dawned fine and sunny. After a leisurely breakfast, we headed off to Lemon Tree Passage and the Telligerry Peninsula, where we planned to spend most of the day. A coffee to start the morning saw us sitting  looking out over the water at Lemon Tree Passage.
The Historical Society was hosting a tour of the Halloran estate at Tanilba Bay. There were only 5 of us, Ian and myself and 3 locals in addition to the guide. Denise was most knowledgeable and has obviously done this before because she was prepared with all the papers and books to refer to.
We spent a fascinating morning learning about how Henry Halloran, a well-known architect of his time, had planned a ‘garden city’ at Tanilba, as it was then known. The unique stone structures which abound in the area are all part of his grand plan which never came to fruition. In fact the Entrance Gate at one end of the Avenue of Allies and the Water Gate at the other were completed 100 years to the day after the granting of Caswell land on 31st March 1931.



Historical they may be, but I think they are rather ugly.

Tanilba House is the 3rd house built by Lt Caswell for his wife and family in 1837. Formerly open to the public the house and land are sadly falling into disrepair. It is sad to see such history being ignored by local authorities, despite efforts of the local Historical Society.

After lunch we went for a walk along the Lemon Tree Passage foreshore and onto the mangrove boardwalk. This was a very pretty way to stretch our legs out after a morning of hopping in and out of the car.
Nelson Bay for coffee beckoned so we could check the times of the ferry to Tea Gardens on ANZAC Day, tomorrow.
Later we drove on down to Soldiers Point to view the sunset – always a lovely sight on a fine evening.

Day 3
A cold wind blew up the coast overnight and continued throughout the day. The wind had blown away the clouds too, so the sun was shining in a clear blue sky.

It’s ANZAC Day. We had decided to take the ferry across to Tea Gardens for lunch at the pub. We drove into Nelson Bay where the crowds were gathering ready to participate in or to watch the march. So we settled in a coffee shop for a while and then followed the marchers down to the foreshore. We had already bought our ferry ticket so we then headed down to the wharf.
The wind was whipping up the open waters of Port Stephens so the first half of the crossing was quite rough – we were rocking and rolling until we were able to change course and go with the swell. It’s a lovely trip across – often there are dolphin sightings, but not today.
In the pub the traditional, annual game of two-up was well underway. It was very lively. However, we chose to sit away from the noise and found a spot looking out towards the waterfront which was very pleasant.

After lunch we walked along the foreshore, first one way, and then the other. There were lots of pelicans gathered on the fisherman’s co-op wharf – I wonder why? Many more were perched on posts along the shore; some were paddling around and later a group went for a soar – always a fine sight.
Whether it was just the wind or a combination of that, lunch and the walk, it felt like snooze time on the trip back to Nelson Bay. Time enough for a snooze later, the ice cream parlour called!!!! What a super end to a lovely day.



Day 4 – home
Again a leisurely breakfast, all packed, ready to leave around 9.30am.
The weather was still fine and sunny, but the wind was hanging around. Unperturbed we headed for Anna Bay. This is the most southerly town in the Port Stephens area and has a fine surf beach to the north. However, we had another beach in mind to locate.
Having visited Newcastle recently and crossed to Stockton to see the sand dunes, it was disappointing to find we could not really appreciate their immensity as they were a long way north from the town.
From Anna Bay, however, there is access to Birubi Beach. What a gem!!
This beach is at the northern end of the famous Stockton sand dunes and it was a fine sight looking south and seeing the huge line of dunes stretching off into the distance.

What was more of a surprise was the coffee shop, adjacent to the surf club. Tough day at the office for those working there!!!





The wind was still a problem and even the waitress had trouble with it as the wind whipped the froth off the top of the mugs. So a take-away cup was called for to solve that problem.


While we sat soaking up the view a sea eagle flew by and we were also treated to a display of hovering by another local hawk or kite which simply halted in mid-air and hovered, hardly moving despite the strong wind.


A less peaceful visitor, but exciting nonetheless, was a pair of FA18s which flew/hurtled/zoomed by almost at eye level they were flying so low. I was very lucky to capture the two small black spots. These super-fast visitors are common place in the area as we were really only minutes from their base at Williamtown
Coffee consumed, we headed off for a walk down the beach. I had no intention of walking the length of it so when a suitable break in the dunes presented itself we headed away from the beach. I would like to one day cross to the leeward side of the dunes, but when we reached the top of the windward side the sand stretched off into the distance before us. There was no way I was going to be able to trudge across all that sand. Down another dip and up again presented a surprising view. A lake! What a beautiful sight. It was almost easy to imagine we were really in a desert.






Perhaps one day we shall take the tour on the dunes. Perhaps a camel ride at sunset, who knows? One day….

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